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Buy Chainsaw Chain [VERIFIED]

The chainsaw motor powers a drive cog, and the cog imparts motion to the chain as drive lugs on the chain pass over the cog. These lugs, which are sometimes called drive links, also provide a means of determining the chain length. With the chainsaw off and its spark plug disconnected, you can lift the chain away from the bar and see the lugs on the underside of the chain. Count the total number of drive lugs on the chain as the first step in determining chain length.

buy chainsaw chain


While chain length helps ensure that the replacement chain will fit properly around the bar, gauge ensures that the chain will glide around the bar with neither slop nor binding when the chainsaw is running. The drive lugs slip into a groove milled into the edge of the chainsaw bar. This prevents the chain from pulling free of the bar during cutting. Gauge is the thickness of the drive lugs, and the measurement is small, typically expressed in millimeters. A dial caliper will give you an accurate reading of lug thickness.

Forester Cutterless Chain Saw Chain - For Use on the Log Wizard or Lewis WinchCutterless teeth are designed to be used in conjunction with the log wizard and the lewis winch where the chain does not do any actual cutting. This makes the overall usage of...

The Forester Ripping Chain was developed for cutting with the grain when attempting to "rip" a tree. The teeth on a ripping chain are sharpened at a specific angle to be able to discharge the elongated wood chips that happen when cutting with the grain...

To work out the pitch measurement you are going to need a tape measure. To get the correct size, simply count 3 rivets on the chain and measure the distance between them from the centre points. Now divide this by half to get your size. As an example, three rivets that measure an inch across divided by two gives you a pitch of a inch. Make sure you check your chainsaw (on the guide bar) and the instruction manual for the measurements too, as these are typically located in one of these two places.

This is the thickness of the drive links (the tooth-like underside of the chain that fits in the guide bar). The chain gauge is measured in inches and will usually be in the manual or on the chainsaw itself. As it is difficult to measure accurately with a tape measure, you may need a vernier caliper to get this measurement. There are four different gauge sizes, which are .043, 0.50, .058, .063, with the lower sizes being the most common. If you select the wrong size, it may be too thick to fit your chainsaw or too loose to gain proper traction.

This is by far the most common chain available and has been designed to prevent kickback. Think of kickback as being a treadmill at high speed, as soon as you step on it, it throws you off. The same can happen with a chainsaw when the tip comes into contact with the piece of wood. The rotating chain effectively gets thrown back toward the user. By reducing the amount of material that can be cut at any one time, and at a slower speed, there is less chance of kickback occurring.

A full skip chain is at the most aggressive end of the spectrum, meaning it is able to quickly work its way through the wood it is cutting. Much like the skip-tooth, the full-skip has spaces between the cutting teeth (two links instead of one) and is intended for larger chainsaws. And while this is the fastest chain for cutting, it requires skill and experience to operate.

Determining the right chainsaw chain size can be confusing for anyone who does not use chainsaws on a regular basis. If you are not a chainsaw expert and need to replace your chainsaw chain, this how-to guide should tell you everything you need to know to ensure the replacement chainsaw chain you purchase will fit and work with your chainsaw.

The pitch of a chainsaw chain refers to the distance between the drive lugs. Drive lugs are also called drive links. An easy reference for measuring pitch is every 3 rivets. Divide the distance between 3 rivets by 2 to get the pitch.

The image above depicts the shapes throughout the life cycle of a chainsaw cutting tooth. It is important to remove all of the material as shown while sharpening. A common mistake is to solely sharpen the very top of the cutter.

If you are replacing a Stihl chainsaw chain, you can reference the numbers on the side of the chain. These numbers determine the pitch, gauge, and other characteristics of the chain. Stihl refers to these numbers as their Marketing Number System.

Chains, bars, and sprockets can easily be replaced by the chainsaw's owner, dealer, or small engine repair shop. Please consider the size of chain on the saw now may not be the size chain that was on the saw when it was manufactured.

This chart can help you find a chain for your saw, but you should determine the size of your existing chain and the number of drive links before making a purchase. The information provided in this chart is believed to be true but we request you to verify the size requirement of your saw before making a purchase.

Your chain streches that much??? It's not just the bar slipping back ? I've gone threw 50' rolls of chain making up my own when logging and they never stretched much after the first 15 mins. or so of sawing. What size and kind of chain are you using Billy?

I'd look into a different chain for the power saw.For I get a lot use out my chain till they are wore out the teeth.I'd check to see if the bar is loose and slippage in a effect.A cheap chain is a CHEAP garbage,Buy a better more stronger one for they last a little longer.

Billy, your chain is wearing, not stretching. If your saw doesn't put out enough oil, the chain will run dry and get hot and the links and pins will wear a few thousandth each and all those add up. I keep four or five chains on hand and when I get two or three too long ,I have my local Stihl dealer take out a link for $5.00 each. The chain runs dryer and hotter when your cutting a full bar's worth of wood than it does on small stuff. When you're out of gas you should also be out of bar oil. If you have a lot of oil left then you saw is not putting out enough. It may be partially plugged or needs to be stepped up. Some you can adjust and some you can't.

Ok. The saw is I stihl MS440 magnum with a 25" bar. The only chains I'll by for it is the stihl chains. I've got the oil adjustment all the way out on it so it's getting plenty of oil. I have to refill it whenever I refill the gas tank. The bar's not slipping on it. I thought of that and marked it to check. The only think I can think is that I might be over tightening it. What do y'all recommend. I got the chainsaw second hand so I have no manual on it.

I set my tension so I can pull down about 1/2 the chain links guide out of the bar. ( 1/4" or so )My saws are all set so that there's still about 1/3rd of the oil still in it by the time I run out of gas. Roller tip bars. Use only summer grade oil by the time I saw for 10 mins. the oil is good and warm from the heat of the saw. I use every chain right down to the last bit of tooth and never had one stretch enough you could remove a tooth. I have stil chain, Oregon chain and lazer chain they all preform about the same the bars are 16', 21" & 24". I flip the bar and file off the sharp edges after about each 8 hrs. of sawing. My chains are all 3/8 if your using 404 it may have more drag is all I can think of also I use a guide to file down the rakers if you over do it you'll destroy your clutch & probably stretch the chain more. Also keep the chain good and sharp.

Thanks everybody. I sharpen the chain and flip and dress the bar after each use. I'm thinking it's the tightening. I've had a few people here tell me to use the thickness of a dime as a guage for the space between the bar and the chain.

Yeah, I like Oregon chain too. I set the chain so at the midpoint of the bar, a tooth can't come all the way clear. Usually about 1/2 way. I check it quickly before I start cutting, and don't worry about setting it unless I think the chain may be able to jump.If you want a manual for your saw, here's the link:

My chain on stihl ms 310 seems to wear quicker than on my smaller huskavarnas but then I'm usually pushing it to the limit in 30" plus hardwoods cut after cut. We burn a lot of wood between the house and the three greenhouses plus the 12 ricks for sale. If I'm limbing with the 310 , the chain runs cooler and wears less. A sharp chain will also run cooler in big wood. The hotter the chain, the lower the viscosity of the oil and more wear on the links and pins. If you file your rakers too low you cause extra wear from impact. 041b061a72


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